KNOWLEDGEBASE

L&L's official recommendation is for an electrician to connect the kiln to power. You should have already figured out your voltage, phase, and maximum amps available (or have the electrician involved) before buying a kiln. If you are the electrician then you will need to know what the voltage, phase, and total amps are for the unit. Also, if it has a power cord or not, and if it does, what the configuration (or NEMA number) of the cord's plug head is.

1. The voltage and Phase of the kiln need to match what is available where the kiln will be located.
2. The size of the circuit breaker and wires are determined by multiplying the total amps of the kiln times 125%, then rounding up. For example, a JD2927 208 volt 1 phase is a 60 amp kiln. 60 x 1.25 = 75. So 75 amps- but breakers go every 10 amps so you round up to 80 amps. 80 amps are associated with #3 copper wire. When in doubt, oversize.
3. The length of the run between the breaker and the kiln is critical. The shorter the better, except if the heat from the kiln can heat the breaker. Typically if the run is more than 40 feet one-way it is best to use the next size up for the wire
4. On L&L Kilns with 48 amps or less a power cord is included. The NEMA # for the cord is almost always found in the product sales literature. Generally, though, any L&L with more than 26 amps and less than 48 amps gets a NEMA 6-50 for 1 phase and a NEMA 15-50 for 3 phase. For LB kilns and the smallest Easy-Fires, there are other options for different plug heads as well. NEMA #s refer to the configuration and number of prongs on the plug head.
5. On larger L&L Kilns, no power cord is included. In the world of electricity anything more than 48amps needs to be "hard-wired". This is where the electrician brings the proper-sized wires from the breaker right to the kiln's control box. Typically wires are run in hard conduit to near the kiln where a switch or some sort of breaker or fuse is, then wires run in flexible conduit to the kiln's control box. On the control box, there is a 1-inch "starter hole". The electrician uses his "knockout tool" in the starter hole to make the hole the right size to accept the conduit. Knockout tools come in all different sizes. They are basically a punch and die able to be pressed together by a threaded bolt and nut. They are used to make a clean large-sized hole through thin metal. Inside the kiln's control box is a power connection block with Allen key screw-down connectors for the wires.
6. Most L&L Kilns do not use a neutral line. This may save you a little money when running wires. Some people run the neutral anyway and just cap it off at the kiln end. Possibly a different kiln or other appliance might need that electrical service someday, and if they require a neutral- it will already be there ready to use.

Direct Wiring a Kiln instead of using the power cord

1. It is possible, and some people prefer, to direct wire a kiln even though it comes supplied with a power cord.

2. Doing this has the advantage of eliminating the connection at the receptacle.

3. This will not affect the warranty as long as you use the recommended proper gauge wire to hook up the kiln.